📖 Strata Lighting System
Specs, Setup, & Limitations — Installer Master Guide
🔎 INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the Strata Lighting Installer Program.
This page will serve as your foundational overview of the Strata Permanent Lighting System. Before diving into installation, power box builds, or wiring, it’s critical to understand how our system works, what makes it unique, and the physical rules you must follow to ensure safe, long-lasting installs.
The #1 cause of system malfunctions is incorrect power injection or exceeding limitations.
This guide will help ensure that never happens.
🔬 SYSTEM TECHNICAL SPECS SUMMARY
| Metric | Value |
| Voltage | 48V DC |
| Watts Per Bulb | 1.3W |
| Lumens Per Bulb | ~120–130 lumens |
| Spacing | 8” center-to-center |
| Lifespan | 25–30 years (avg 6–8 hrs/night usage) |
| Control | WiFi/Bluetooth App (Surplife) |
| Color Range | 19 Million+ RGBWW Colors |
| Presets | 75+ presets built-in |
| Customization | Individual bulb-level programming |
| Typical Energy Cost | ~$5-15/month average usage |
| Track Size | 3.3 ft sections |
| Power Injection Frequency | Every 180 lights, or 120 ft |
🔩 SYSTEM OVERVIEW — COMPONENTS & FUNCTIONS
Our system is built on commercial-grade 48V DC Low Voltage architecture. This allows us to run longer distances, achieve brighter output, and provide unmatched lifespan compared to traditional 12V systems or off-the-shelf permanent lighting competitors.
✅ Core Components List
| Component | Description & Function |
| Light Strands (5-bulb strands) | 8” spaced bulbs (150 bulbs per 100 ft). Each strand contains 5 RGBWW Lights. Strands connect end-to-end. |
| Single-Light Strand (1-bulb strand) | Single bulb strands. Ideal for end of runs & to avoid splicing. Strands connect end-to-end. |
| Aluminum Track | 3.3 ft extruded aluminum track designed to house the light strand. Powder-coated and color-matched to blend seamlessly into fascia and soffits. Provides structural support and protects the wiring from UV & weather. 2-piece track includes flat back track & curved light track that snap into one another. |
| 48V Power Supply (PSU) | Converts 120V AC to 48V DC. Powers the entire system and determines maximum run length. Three sizes: 350W, 600W, 1000W. |
| Weatherproof Power Box | Enclosure that houses the PSU, controller, signal amplifier, and wiring. Protects all internal components from moisture, pests, and weather exposure. |
| Controller | Bluetooth/Wifi app controller that connects to control the lighting system. Allows for full customization of patterns, colors, and presets. |
| Signal Amplifier | Boosts data signal stability, especially at longer initial run lengths. Installed directly in the power box. |
| Power Cord | Standard power input cord supplying 120V to the power box. |
| T-Power Injector | Mid-run power injection point. Delivers supplemental voltage downstream to prevent voltage drop beyond PSU limitations. |
| Y-Data Splitter | Allows for signal/data branching when the layout requires multiple directional runs. |
| Extension Wires (1ft,5ft, 10ft, 20ft) (Black or Clear) | Allow for custom spacing between roofline and power pack, and between multiple roof sections or breaks. |
⚙ POWER SUPPLY OPTIONS & LIMITATIONS
The correct power supply must always be selected based on total system size (linear footage) and total power draw.
| Power Supply | Max Lights Supported | Max Linear Feet | Typical Use Case |
| 350W PSU | ~230 bulbs | ~150 ft | Small installs, garages, single story front homes |
| 600W PSU | ~400 bulbs | ~275 ft | Standard residential full-front or partial wrap installs |
| 1200W PSU | ~525 bulbs | ~350 ft | Full home wraps, large estates, full perimeters |
📏 FOOTAGE & POWER INJECTION RULES
Voltage drop is the most critical limitation in any low-voltage system. This is why our system uses strategic power injection points to ensure stable performance across long runs.
- Maximum distance between power injections: 66 ft (or every 100 bulbs).
- Use 1 T-Power Injector for every 100 Lights or 66 ft of lighting after initial PSU output.
- If your system exceeds these distances, you MUST power inject to prevent dimming, flickering, or color distortion.
| Linear Feet | # of Lights | T-Power Injectors Required |
| 0–120 ft | 0-180 lights | None |
| 120–240 ft | 180-360 lights | 1 |
| 240+ ft | 360+ lights | 2 |
✅ Always round up — it’s better to slightly over-inject power than under-inject.
⚠ KEY LIMITATION RULES (MUST FOLLOW)
- Never exceed PSU wattage limits — calculate total watts (1.3W per bulb).
- Never exceed 120 ft or 180 lights without injecting power.
- NEVER mix 12V components with 48V system components.
- All connections must remain fully weatherproofed at all junction points.
- Never run more than a 40ft extension run.
🧠 SYSTEM DESIGN BEST PRACTICES
- Build every system backwards from the power source.
- Always plan for where your PSU/power box will mount.
- Use the correct extension wire lengths & always anchor wires for clean wire management.
- Account for additional materials when dealing with difficult corners, valleys, or second-story roofs.
- Label all connections during installation — makes future troubleshooting 10x easier.
- Pre-plan power injections before installation day to avoid delays.
🚫 COMMON DESIGN MISTAKES TO AVOID
- Exceeding total run length for PSU size.
- Forgetting to add power injection mid-run.
- Underestimating extra track or strands for waste & cutting.
- Not weather-sealing connections properly.
- Running extensions longer than manufacturer maximums(40ft).
🏗 INSTALLATION PHILOSOPHY
Brilliance is engineered to be:
- Clean
- Long-lasting
- Discreet
- Professional
Your installs should never have visible wires, sloppy power boxes, or overloaded power supplies. The system you install today will last decades — when done correctly.
This is the level of excellence that allows you to confidently sell permanent lighting at premium prices and maintain long-term customer trust.
✅ You now have your full specs, design rules, and system limitations foundation.
Module 1: Power Box Install & Setup
While most dealers focus on light installs first, the power box location is one of the most critical design decisions you’ll make on every job.
The power source directly affects:
- Wire management
- Power injection layout
- System stability
- Curb appeal
🔎 How to Choose the Optimal Power Box Location
Our #1 rule: Keep it central, protected, and discreet.
🚗 Preferred Location: Inside the Garage
- ✅ Protection from sun, rain, and extreme temperatures
- ✅ Easy access to clean 120V power
- ✅ Keeps power components & wires hidden for a professional appearance
- ✅ Easier servicing down the road
🎯 Standard Garage Mounting
1️⃣ Identify outlet location:
Find a clean, grounded 120V outlet in the garage with enough clearance for the power box mount.
2️⃣ Mount power box securely:
Drill into studs or secure backing board. Use minimum of 4 mounting screws. Use drywall anchors if installing into drywall.
3️⃣ Determine wire exit point:
Find the most central point to exit the garage (usually above the garage door header).
4️⃣ Drill exit hole:
Use a 1/2” or 3/4” bit depending on wire count. Drill as high as possible to minimize visible wire on exterior wall.
5️⃣ Feed low-voltage cable through hole:
This will be your main extension run leading to the roofline & first light strand
6️⃣ Seal exit hole with silicone:
Fully waterproof both interior and exterior sides of drilled hole.
7️⃣ Secure cable to exterior wall:
Use one-hole straps to secure wiring up toward the eaves. Try to minimize cable visibility as much as possible.
8️⃣ Begin light run near exit point:
Run wires directly into the nearest track & backfeed the cables to the beginning of the run.
🌧 Alternate Location: Exterior Wall Mount
- ✅ Used if garage access isn’t feasible
- ✅ Requires outdoor-rated 120V outlet with weatherproof cover
- ✅ Power box itself is fully sealed for outdoor mounting
- ✅ Must avoid full sun or sprinkler exposure where possible
✅ After this section, you should fully understand how to:
- Select the ideal power box location
- Securely mount the enclosure
- Run wires cleanly to maintain professional appearance
- Fully weatherproof all penetrations
Reminder: Your power box location is permanent. Always invest extra time to think through mounting before drilling
Module 2: Wire Running & Management
Mastering Clean Cable Transitions & Secure Anchoring
🔎 The Gold Standard of Wire Management Our goal is to make the wiring disappear. Whether you are running a main extension or a power injection line, the wire should follow the natural lines of the architecture and remain tight to the surface.
🔧 SECTION 1 — Anchoring into Stucco & Drywall When you aren’t mounting directly into wood, you must use anchors to ensure the system stays permanent for 20+ years.
1️⃣ Drill Pilot Holes: Identify your wire path. Use a masonry bit for stucco or a standard bit for drywall. Ensure your spacing is consistent (approx. every 18–24 inches on straight runs). 2️⃣ Add Anchors: Insert your plastic anchors into the pilot holes. Tap them flush with the surface using your pliers or a hammer.
3️⃣ Set Screws & Straps: Place a one-hole strap over a color-matched screw and drive it into the anchor.
PRO TIP: Do not drive the screw all the way in yet! Leave about a 1/2 inch gap. This allows you to easily slide your wires behind the strap before the final tightening.
🎯 SECTION 2 — The “Stacking” Technique for a Neat Look Often, you will be running two wires at once (e.g., your Main Extension and an SPT-1 Power Injection wire). If you run them side-by-side, it looks messy and bulky.
✅ The Pro Method: * Stack the wires on top of each other.
- Typically, place the SPT-1 wire on the outside (top).
- This makes the two cables appear as a single, uniform wire run.
- Once stacked, tighten the one-hole strap until the wires are snug and immobile.
🚪 SECTION 3 — Transitioning from Garage to Exterior Most installs begin in the garage. How you get the wire from the controller to the roofline determines the “first impression” of the job.
1️⃣ Find the Exit Point: Locate a spot as high as possible on the garage wall, ideally near the ceiling or header. This keeps the interior wire run minimal and discreet.
2️⃣ Drill Through: Use a 1/2” or 3/4” bit (depending on how many wires you are feeding) to drill straight through to the exterior.
3️⃣ Feed & Protect: Push your extension and injection wires through the hole.
- Interior: Run the wires from the power box up the wall to the hole using the stacking and strapping method described above.
- Exterior: Once the wires are through, immediately use a one-hole strap to secure the wire as it exits the wall to prevent it from sagging.
4️⃣ Seal the Penetration: Always use outdoor-rated silicone to seal both the interior and exterior of the hole to prevent pests or moisture from entering the home.
🏠 SECTION 4 — Connecting to the Track Once your wire reaches the roofline, it needs to enter the Track system.
- Side-Entry: Run the wire up toward the eaves and tuck the extension into the side of the track.
- The “Backfeed” Rule: Run your wires into the nearest track and backfeed them to the very beginning of the run. This ensures that the first light in your sequence has a clean, hidden power connection.
✅ Once you complete this module, you will fully master:
- How to use anchors and one-hole straps on various surfaces.
- The “Stacking” method for multi-wire runs.
- Drilling and sealing clean garage-to-exterior transitions.
- Integrating the main power feed into the Track system.
Module 3: Power Injections
When, Where, & How To Inject Power Correctly
🔎 INTRODUCTION
Power injection is one of the most critical skills in permanent lighting system design. Done correctly, it allows you to scale your installs to 300+ feet with zero voltage drop, no dimming, no flickering, and rock-solid performance for 20+ years.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Power Injecting is ONLY neccessary for installs over 120ft/ 180 lights. You will need to purchase 16/2 SPT or Speaker Wire Spools separately, as it is not included in your kit. The average cost is about $0.10-$0.20/ft, and can be found at Home Depot or online retailers. We recommend using 16/2 or 14/2 gauge wires.
⚠ Incorrect power injection is the #1 cause of voltage drop failures, warranty issues, and customer complaints.
This module will show you exactly how often to inject, how to handle Y-splits, and how to physically inject power in the field.
🔧 SECTION 1 — How Often To Inject Power
In a standard straight-run installation (no Y-splits), your power injection schedule will follow these simple rules:
🔌 Injection Wire 16/2:
- We recommend 16/2 or 14/2 SPT or Speaker Wire for injecting power.
- 18/2 wire can be used for smaller jobs, but it is less reliable, especially on larger installs over 200ft, and can cause heat transfer issues.
🧮 The 120-Foot Rule:
- Inject power every 120 feet (which equals approximately 180 lights).
- It’s usually a good to play it safe an inject a little earlier (like at 170 lights) just to account for user error.
- Always inject before you start seeing dimming or voltage drop symptoms.
✅ You can think of this as:
1 injection per 180 lights.
📊 STANDARD POWER INJECTION CHART:
| Total Linear Feet | Total # of Lights | Power Injectors Needed |
| 0-120 ft | 0-180 lights | None |
| 120-240 ft | 180-360 lights | 1 |
| 240+ ft | 360+ lights | 2 |
✅ Always round up.
When in doubt, inject earlier rather than later.
🔬 WHY Do We Inject?
- The Strata Lighting System runs on 48V DC — far superior to 12V systems, but still subject to voltage drop.
- Every bulb draws ~1.3 watts, which slowly lowers voltage downstream.
- Regular injections keep every bulb running at full brightness & full color fidelity.
🔀 SECTION 2 — Power Injections After Y-Splits
While the 120-foot rule applies to standard runs, things change when you introduce a Y-Splitter.
A Y-Splitter divides your main line into two new runs, but the total power draw is now shared between both branches.
This requires earlier injections to ensure stability on both sides.
🎯 BASELINE Y-SPLIT RULE:
- After any Y-Splitter, inject every 90 lights (or ~60 feet) on each branch starting immediately after the split.
- After your first injection on each branch, you can return to the normal 120-ft rule.
📊 Y-SPLIT POWER INJECTION TABLE:
| Lights On Each Branch | Injection Needed? |
| 0–90 lights | No injection yet |
| 90+ lights | Inject at 50 lights |
| 180+ lights | Continue injecting every 100 lights |
🧮 EXAMPLES:
Example 1 — Early Y-Split:
You install a Y-Splitter after 40 lights.
- Line A: Adds 40 lights (small section)
- Line B: Continues 150 lights to end(main run)
Injection plan:
- 40 (pre-split) + 40 (Line A) = 80 lights — no injection needed on Line A.
- Inject Line B at 100 lights after the split (180th bulb overall).
- Continue injecting Line B every 100 lights afterward.
Example 2 — Symmetrical Split:
You split after 120 ft, both branches go 100 lights.
- Inject at 90 lights on both Line A and Line B.
- Resume 180-light injections beyond that.
⚠ Key Reminders for Y-Splits:
- Always count total load forward from power source.
- Each branch after a Y-Split functions like its own run.
- You cannot share power injectors across branches.
- Label all injections for future service.
- It’s ALWAYS better to inject earlier than risk voltage instability.
✅ PRO TIP:
For every layout that includes Y-Splits, sketch your full injection plan in advance before starting the install.
✅ Once you complete this module, you will fully master:
- How to calculate injections.
- How to map complex layouts.
How to execute safe, stable, long-lasting injections for every job.
Module 4.1: SnapTrack 2-Piece Installation Techniques
Hands-On Videos For Clean, Professional Installs
🔎 INTRODUCTION
In this module, you’ll learn how to properly install the popular 2-Piece “SnapTrack” Style track.
SECTION 1 — How to Install Flat Tracks
SECTION 2 — How to Install Light Tracks
To install the U-Track, simply pop the track into the flat track after it is installed.
SECTION 3 — How to Cut 90° Corners for Flat Tracks
SECTION 4 — How to Cut 90° Corners for Light Tracks
SECTION 5 — How to Make Endcaps
🧰 Module 5: Tools & Materials Required
Your Complete Equipment & Supply Guide For Smooth Installs
🔎 INTRODUCTION
Permanent lighting installation requires precision, attention to detail, and having the right equipment on hand.
This module will give you a clear, detailed checklist of every tool, secondary material, and consumable item you’ll need to be fully prepared for every job — outside of your supplied lighting kits.
👉 This guide ensures you’re never left guessing on Day 1.
🔨 TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
1️⃣ Dewalt 20V Roofing Nailer
🔗 Product Link
Use: Installing flat tracks into fascia.
2️⃣ 16/2 SPT-2 Injection Wire
2️⃣ Milwaukee M12 or M18 Impact Drill + Batteries
🔗 Product Link
Use: Installing screws into fascia, walls, wood, stucco, and drywall.
3️⃣ Metal Aviation Snips
🔗 Product Link
Use: Cutting and trimming aluminum tracks.
4️⃣ Wire Strippers / Linemen Combo Tool
🔗 Product Link
Use: Wire stripping for power injections; bending tracks with linemen functionality.
5️⃣ Crimping Tool
🔗 Product Link
Use: Crimping wires at terminals & splicing.
6️⃣ Speed Square / Rafter Square
🔗 Product Link
Use: Measuring straight cut lines for tracks.
7️⃣ Carpenter Pencils
🔗 Product Link
Use: Marking cut lines on tracks and drill locations.
8️⃣ Milwaukee Carbide Drill Bits
🔗 Product Link
Use: Leading holes for wires and anchor points.
9️⃣ Multi-Use Screwdriver
🔗 Product Link
Use: Multi-purpose for stuck tracks, light removal, and power terminal adjustments.
🔟 Outlet Tester
🔗 Product Link
Use: Testing outlet power availability.
1️⃣1️⃣ Multimeter
🔗 Product Link
Use: Troubleshooting voltage output and light flickering.
1️⃣2️⃣ Disposable Foam Paint Brush
🔗 Product Link
Use: Quick touch-ups on tracks or wire runs.
1️⃣3️⃣ Torpedo Level
🔗 Product Link
Use: Leveling power boxes and key surface mounts.
1️⃣4️⃣ Cat’s Paw Nail Remover
🔗 Product Link
Use: Removing bent or misfired tracks installed with nailer.
📦 SECONDARY SUPPLIES & CONSUMABLES
1️⃣ 1″ Roofing Nails (Coil)
🔗 Product Link
Use: Flat track installations with Dewalt nailer.
2️⃣ 3/4″ Truss Head Screws (Metal to Wood)
🔗 Product Link
Use: Track installs in tight spaces, power box anchoring.
3️⃣ 3/4″ Truss Head Self-Tapping Screws (Metal to Metal)
🔗 Product Link
Use: Metal surface installations (awnings, metal fascia, etc).
4️⃣ Small Wood Screws
(Link TBD)
Use: Power box internals and small anchoring needs.
5️⃣ 3/16″ One-Hole Straps
🔗 Product Link
Use: Anchoring extension wires to home surfaces.
6️⃣ Drywall/Stucco Anchors
(Link TBD)
Use: Anchoring to stucco or drywall where studs aren’t available.
7️⃣ Wire Nuts
🔗 Product Link
Use: Standard wire splicing connections.
8️⃣ Inline 3-Wire Connectors
🔗 Product Link
Use: Advanced splicing & injection connections.
9️⃣ Perforated Hanger Strap (Optional)
🔗 Product Link
Use: Securing power supplies inside boxes.
🔟 Heavy-Duty Zip Ties (Clear & Black)
Use: Securing wiring bundles to posts or piping.
1️⃣1️⃣ Silicone (Sealant)
(Link TBD)
Use: Weatherproofing drill holes and feed-throughs.
1️⃣2️⃣ Electrical Tape
Use: Final sealing of spliced wires.
1️⃣3️⃣ Insulated Crimp Terminals (16–20 gauge)
🔗 Product Link
Use: Power supply terminals, especially on 1000W supplies where terminal posts are limited.
✅ Once you’ve acquired everything on this list — you’ll be 100% ready to install any system size, anywhere, with zero missing parts or tools.
Module 5: App Setup & Configuration
Connecting the Controller to the Surplife App
🔎 The Final Handshake The Surplife app is the brain of the Strata Lighting system. It allows the customer to control colors, set schedules, and create custom animations. Once your wiring is verified and the power is on, your final step is to sync the controller to the app and configure the light count.
This module will walk you through the pairing process, connecting to local Wi-Fi, and setting up the “Zones” for the property.
Basic & Advanced Surplife App Tutorials:
📲 Download the Surplife App Before beginning the sync process, ensure you have the latest version of the app installed on your mobile device.
- For iOS (Apple): Download on the App Store
- For Android: Get it on Google Play
🎯 Pre-Sync Checklist
- Power Cycle: Ensure the controller has been powered on for at least 30 seconds.
- Bluetooth/Location: Make sure your phone’s Bluetooth and Location services are turned ON to find the controller.
- Network: If connecting to the home’s Wi-Fi, ensure you have the 2.4GHz network password ready.
✅ After this section, you should fully understand how to:
- Pair the Surplife app with the hardware controller.
- Connect the system to the customer’s home network for remote access.
- Configure the “Number of Points” (light count) to ensure every bulb is active.
- Set basic schedules so the lights turn on and off automatically.
Pro Tip: Always help the customer download the app and walk them through the app basics before leaving the job site. A 5-minute tutorial here prevents a 20-minute support call later!